RandomPuff is a novel and innovative puffer that uses 4D embroidery puffs for insulation. Puffs are initially fabricated flat and pop up into domes when exposed to heat. The activated puffs then trap air between the outer environment and the wearer's body to keep them warm. The development involves the creation of a library of 4D embroidery material interactions between 'active fibers' and 'static fabrics'. Designers and developers can use computational design tools to work collaboratively with end-users, creating novel apparel and softgood designs that are high-tech fashion, personalized and sustainable.

Industry Inspirations

My experience working at NIKE product development center highlights a common challenge in the footwear industry, which is lack of efficient communication between design, prototype, and production team. The transformation from 3D shoe designs to 2D upper patterns can be particularly challenging and often requires multiple rounds of iterations. Another experience working at a carbon fiber R&D center exposed me to the technique of tailor fiber placement. It is a more advanced and efficient method of reinforcing an artifact at specific directions and quantities to achieve the desired strength and durability with minimal material.

Based on my experiences in the industry, I value embroidery as a novel hybrid manufacturing method that can blend a wide range of fibers and substrates with arbitrary geometries. Embroidery has the potential to offer a more streamlined and efficient manufacturing process, particularly for complex designs and materials.

Research Objectives

This work demonstrates a pipeline of augmenting conventional 2D fabrics to 3D tactile surfaces with the aim to innovate softgoods using active textiles. This approach is centered around the idea of creating textiles that are not just passive materials, but rather materials that can actively respond to their environment or wearer.

Pipeline

I began my work by testing different embroidery patterns with a variety of fabrics to determine which materials worked best for creating sharp, non-wrinkled shapes. My experimentation with different fabrics, such as cotton, neoprene, organza, and dry oilskin, allowed me to identify lightweight materials with high bounciness as being particularly effective for this purpose.

In terms of design tools, I used two open-source software programs to program the digital embroidery files: PEmbroidery for fine stitch and line work, and Inkstitch for basic geometries. By using these software programs, I was able to create customized embroidery designs that could be executed with precision and accuracy.

In terms of hardware, I found that the embroidery process can be executed using a range of machines, from hobbyist desktop machines to industrial-grade equipment. This suggests that the technology is accessible and scalable, making it possible for designers and manufacturers of all levels to incorporate embroidery techniques into their work.

Library of 4D embroidery geometry

The embroidery parameters were systematically characterized to better understand the 1D interaction between the thread and substrate. By testing different parameters such as stroke direction, stroke width, density, and stitch spacing, I was able to identify how these factors influence the resulting embroidery pattern and how the thread interacts with the substrate. Based on these findings, I can strategically arrange the 1D fiber into a macro 2D pattern, which could then be used to form 3D geometries. For example, by arranging even lines in a certain way, it is possible to create a bend in the resulting 3D geometry. Similarly, by varying the length of lines in a pattern, a wave can be formed. Circular loops can be used to create puffs, and arbitrary shapes can be used to create more complex geometries.

Contributions

1 - Most 4D material research typically relies on 3D printing, which can result in rigid artifacts. This work takes a different approach, utilizing embroidery to deploy materials at the fiber and stitch levels, which helps to retain both structure and softness.

2 - Embroidery also has several advantages over other active textile research fields such as knitting and weaving. Firstly, embroidery can place threads in any direction, unlike knitting and weaving, which are constrained to linear fashion. Secondly, embroidery allows for a wide variety of substrates, ranging from fabric to paper and film. Thirdly, it's relatively easy to change the thread in the middle of the process, allowing for greater flexibility and experimentation. Finally, embroidery is relatively affordable and accessible, making it a great choice for home settings.

3 - This 4D embroidery approach also makes it easier to fabricate double-curved shapes in a single step, which is more efficient than the traditional tailoring approach, which often requires flattening 3D geometries into multiple 2D pieces and then stitching them together. By using embroidery to create complex 3D shapes, it is possible to save time and materials while also producing more precise and intricate designs.

Conclusion

By creating 3D tactile surfaces, the resulting textiles can offer a range of benefits, such as increased comfort, improved thermal regulation, and enhanced aesthetics. For future work, RandomPuff can offer new opportunities for integrating technology into softgoods, such as incorporating sensors or actuators that can respond to environmental or user input.